Uncovering Scotland’s earliest textiles

Dr Susanna Harris, University of Glasgow
RSE Personal Research Fellowship

Until recently, our understanding of early Scottish history through archaeological finds has been dominated by stone and metal objects. Early Scottish textiles are very rare because the nature of organic materials makes them prone to decay, leaving little trace. However, some elements of fibre—such as the remains of string impressed into pottery and preserved textile fragments—have survived for thousands of years.

Awarded an RSE Personal Research Fellowship, Dr Susanna Harris embarked on her archaeological research project, Uncovering Scotland’s Earliest Textiles, to address a gap in our historical understanding and investigate some of the oldest, rarest, and most fragile preserved textiles in Scotland.

The project focused on identifying early textiles preserved in museum collections and developer-led archaeological archives across Scotland, then analysing them using archaeological and scientific techniques. The research examined the materials these textiles were made from, their construction, and what they reveal about life in prehistoric Scotland.

The oldest preserved textiles in Scotland date back around 4,000 years, to the Bronze Age. This was a period of innovation, not only in metalworking but also in textile production. The earliest fabrics were made from plant fibres, but people soon began experimenting with animal fibres.

“Many people don’t realise that sheep used to be hairy, and through selective breeding during the Bronze Age, they were altered from hairy animals into wool-bearing ones, transforming textile possibilities. Horses, newly introduced to Scotland, also inspired innovation at this time, and their long tail hairs were used to make textiles.”

Dr Harris continues, “One of the most remarkable discoveries during this project was a small, brimmed hat made from horsehair, found during peat cutting at Kirtomy in the Highlands in 1953. Long held in the collections of National Museums Scotland, it was only through recent radiocarbon dating that the hat was revealed to be around 3,000 years old and, through this project, identified as Scotland’s earliest recognisable garment. Made with an unusual technique called warp twining using horse tail hair attached to a plant fibre structure, a reconstruction of the hat demonstrates both technical skill and a sense of style, which challenges stereotypes of prehistoric people as poorly dressed or unsophisticated.”

Unexpectedly, during the project, Dr Harris was given the opportunity to analyse a knot of plant fibre from the recently discovered Rosemarkie Hoard in the Highlands, further expanding our knowledge about these early fabrics.

Dr Harris’s research has helped to reveal the deep history of Scotland’s earliest textile heritage. It has provided new information about how ancient fabrics were made, what materials were used, and the level of expertise involved. Collections across Scotland—including those at The Orkney Museum, Perth Museum, National Museums Scotland, and Glasgow Life Museums—now have improved knowledge of early textile fragments in their care.

The Uncovering Scotland’s Earliest Textiles project directly addresses priorities identified in the Scottish Archaeological Research Framework, helping to ensure that textiles are recognised as a vital part of Scotland’s past. This knowledge supports curators when developing exhibitions, online content, and public interpretation.

Speaking about her award, Dr Harris said,

Taking the project forward, Dr Harris will now focus on disseminating her discoveries in both academic and non-academic publications. Her long-term hope is for early Scottish textiles to become more visible through public exhibitions and online platforms.

Dr Harris’s research opens opportunities for artists, makers, and reenactors to re-engage creatively with Scotland’s deep textile heritage. Ultimately, the project seeks to ensure that textiles are fully integrated into the Bronze Age story of Scotland, enriching our understanding of the nation’s history and identity.